MIDWESTYLE: Camo is for outside

*This post contains the use of what we call "the hillbilly hem job," a term loveably applied to the folding under of excess fabric at the hem of one's pants. We, in no way, endorse this tactic as a longterm solution to long pantz. Go to a tailor. But, in the short term, what the hell? Plus, this entire photo shoot was unplanned, I was caught by one of the many street style photographers in the middle of Missouri while I was on a lonesome hike through the woods in my double monks, and I needed a quick solution. You're not still cuffing your pants, are you? Besides, that's why the ROTM dudes put a lug sole on those monks, guys. For hiking. They want you to do more hiking.

BACK TO OUR REGULARLY SCHEDULED PROGRAMMING

Have you guys heard of Barena? It's Italian tailored, casual #menswear. And it's awesome. Tailored casual is king. Jersey everything. Fleece, everywhere. Your grandpa's sweatsuit and your blazer can be made of the same thing now. Anyway, I found this double breasted jersey sport coat on Yoox for, like, not very much money. The fit is spot on and it's unlined, unstructured, and unbelievably comfortable. Notice how it's layered over an aran knit sweater? That's for texture. The internet told me fall is about texture.

I don't care if you hate camouflage, these Baldwin joints are on point. Word is that Hova wears them a ton. If you hate on something Jay-Z rocks all the time, no offense, but who the hell do you think you are? I'll trust your opinion when your net worth is around $500 million.

Oh, and double monks on a lug sole? Phew, never thought I'd see the day. That is, of course, until the Run of the Mill guys dropped these bombs on us last fall. As a man who's notoriously obsessed with resoling shoes with soles that have no business being welted to the uppers I've chosen for them, these struck a deep, deep chord with me. Couldn't drop $435 on 'em, but I found some on StyleForum at a steep discount. And seriously, it's completely normal for guys to walk around in the forest with double monks! That's what lug soles are for! Welcome to the 21st century. 

On Cameron: double-breasted jersey blazer by Barena; cotton aran knit sweater by J.Crew; The Ryan pant in camo by Baldwin; scotch grain double monks by Run of the Mill; thrifted scarf. 

Photos by Christine 'Big Cat' Cover

midweSTYLE: Whiteout

Few pieces in a man's arsenal are more divisive than white denim. 

There are two sides of the fence—and few people are actually on the fence itself. Dudes either love white denim, or they hate it. I fall on the former side, obviously. That said, I've had conversations with guys who tend to stay away from the white for fear of a painful amount of upkeep. But, perhaps there's a mental shift that needs to be had. Listen...

You guys remember when you got your new kicks at the beginning of the school year, right? As boys, we all feared that if those snow-white Converse All-Stars got a speck of playground dust on or around their perfectly pure uppers, that cute girl who sat at the desk next to you would not shoot you a second glance and all of third grade would be an ultimate failure. But, if you remember correctly, you ended up wearing those pristine kicks to a muddy kickball game a few weeks later and still managed to get playground-married to Elizabeth during recess. 

Point being: White stuff was never really meant to stay white.

I tend to treat white denim as a kind of blank canvas that's supposed to be painted. The more specks they get, the better. In fact, I want them to be pretty disgusting when it's all said and done. Am I going to try to remove stains? No. Am I even going to try to prevent them in the first place? Probably not. The dingier they get, the more character they've got. Don't get me wrong, I'm not going rub myself down with sod or intentionally dump a cup of coffee on them. But life happens.

Yes, if they start to smell bad, I'll wash them, relax.

Yes, you can wear them after Labor Day. The guy who said you couldn't was a Communist, and he didn't even own anything white.

Also, Indys in the summertime is okay, too. Maybe I should be wearing Vans or Tretorns, but I can't take these things off. 

On Cameron: "The Paulie" chambray shirt by Baldwin Denim; tri-blend tank top by American Apparel; double O-ring belt by Narragansett Leathers; "The Henley" in white by Baldwin Denim; Indy boots by Alden; "Preston" eyeglasses by Warby Parker; submariner watch by Military Watch Co.

Photography by Jarred Donalson

DIY: Rope Bracelet

With the rising popularity of men's bracelets—love 'em or hate 'em—there have been a slew of brands who are doing their part to push polished men's accessories. Miansai, for example, has put out some really great stuff for dudes.

If you're like me, though, you don't exactly have a bunch of extra skrilla lying around to spend on bracelets. The next option is to take the do-it-yourself route. In this case, that route is easily traveled. Here's what you need:

• Cord rope - you'll inevitably have to buy more than you want. Grab some buddies, make friendship bracelets or something?
• Scissors
• Lighter

This process is incredibly simple, and if you've ever been to summer camp and know what's up, you can go ahead and tune out. For those of you haven't, start by cutting the rope to fit your wrist - allow yourself an extra centimeter or so, it'll get removed in the process. Do note, the rest of this procedure is easiest with the help of a partner, but feel free to try it on your own. After I've cut my rope to size, I like to slide a small piece of hardware on the rope to cover the knot that will soon close the bracelet, but it's not essential.

Next, burn the ends of the two ends of the rope with the lighter. The artificial fibers will catch flame and melt (this is where you lose that extra centimeter you accounted for).

After they've burned for a few seconds, blow them out and carefully place the rope around your wrist. Using wet fingers (the ends will still be hot), put the two burnt ends together. The waxy nylon will meld together with pressure.

If the 'knot' isn't ideal, alternate burning and molding it with wet fingers until it's to your liking.

At this point, I slide the bolt or spacer over the knot. Make sure that the opening in the hardware isn't too big, just big enough where you'll have to use some pressure to get the burnt knot inside. From there it will catch and be difficult to slide.

Voila! A brand new rope bracelet. Really, not all that difficult. Granted, it can't be taken off, but the fact that you have to wear it all the time means it will show its wear and tatter with time, not unlike your selvedge or Authentics.

Get creative with this stuff, people!

On Cameron: navy gingham winter-weight button down courtesy of Wharf; Submariner watch (eBayed new for $145) by Military Watch Company; handmade rope bracelets

Photos by Elizabeth Calvert.

midweSTYLE: Building A Still (To Slow Down The Time)

Last week we debuted the photography of our guy Grant Heinlein, who was in home-sweet-Kansas-City for the holidays. He led Cam and Jeff out into the woods and then shot them. But thankfully it was with a camera.

Since Jeff skipped the country on a whim last week—he's somewhere between a pack of Parisian cigarettes and the Louvre right now—I (Seth) have had to hijack his byline. He's obviously lying low until the heat dies down, and consequently didn't have time to leave much in the way of an explanation for this series. So, we'll let the photos do the talking.

Without further adieu: Cam, ladies and gentlemen. Ask him where he got that watch.

Photos by Grant Heinlein.

midweSTYLE: West Bottoms

Every now and again, I'll do a round of thrifting in my home neighborhood in Kansas City. If I've recently gotten a paycheck, I get a little chance-y and pick up pieces that I know I'll probably never wear. Some of them are ill-fitting, others are just ridiculous, and more than not, they end up in my closet unworn. If you thrift with any regularity, you've been there. You know that feeling. You don't need it, and you don't really even want it that badly, but you grab it just in case. After all, it only costs ¢50 or a few bucks. If worse comes to worst, it would make for a good Halloween costume at some point in the future. 

Anyway, that was the story behind this blazer, initially. I didn't have a go-to blue blazer at the time, so I bought it, even though it didn't really fit. The shoulders framed me well enough and the chest wasn't bad, but it had a huge waist measurement. The gentleman that owned it before definitely had a belly. Seriously, Santa Claus status. Regardless, I bought it for a staggering $4.50. A navy blue, American-made, hopsack blazer for under $5? Sure.

After a few lonely months in the closet, I finally took it to get tailored. Tailoring thrifted clothing sounds and feels a little unnatural. Taking something that you bought dirt cheap and investing another $25 to $75 seems wrong at first. But, if the piece is of high enough quality, the investment is well worth the fit and wearability that comes with tailored clothing. I've gotten a jacket or two fitted, some legs of old trousers tapered, waists taken in. It can turn a forgotten thrift store purchase into one of your wardrobe favorites. In this case, the arms ride up a bit, making them appear a little shorter, but hey, it's perfect everywhere else.

Clarks, beat to death.

On Cameron: hopsack blazer, thrifted ($4.50), tailored for $45; patchwork button-down (eBay) by Gitman Vintage; cream sweatshirt (sale, $80 at the Baldwin Men's Shop) by Todd Snyder; the Henley in California wash, (sale at the Baldwin Men's Shop $116, reg. $232), by Baldwin Denim; beeswax desert boots (gift) by Clarks; WWII-era Russian watch (Etsy, $30) by Vostok; leather wrap (gift) by Tanner Goods; recycled cotton socks (Christmas gift purchased from Hickoree's), by Solmate Socks.

Photography by the one and only Grant Heinlein, check him out!

midweSTYLE: Bridge II

Jeff's post a few weeks ago got me thinking about my own fall uniform. The ensemble that automatically pops into my mind when I get out of bed in the morning. This is what I came up with. It's not necessarily limited to these exact pieces, but they do represent the basic formula. It goes something like this: plaid shirt, shawl-collar cardigan, and a lightweight jacket on top of denim and boots. The variations are endless. Nonetheless, this is perhaps my favorite.

If I could, I would be completely content with only wearing Gitman shirting, for the rest of my life. The fit and details are spot on (their mediums are ideal), and every season seems to improve upon the last. There's a consistently wide array of fabrics and patterns - chambrays, oxfords, tartans. There's something strangely familiar about a Gitman Vintage shirt, like you're ninety-five percent sure you saw your dad wearing the same thing back in '74, but you can't be sure.

This service blazer by Apolis has been my go-to top layer for fall. I was turned on to Apolis a few summers back when they teamed up with Katin to produce some chambray board shorts. From there, my interest in the brand and their philosophy has only increased. If you've got the time, take a moment to read up on their story and check out their new fall arrivals, which happens to include some beautiful Italian-crafted suiting. Truly a brand worth supporting and investing in.

These boots were a gift from my dear friend Travis Craig. And get this, he gave these to me on his birthday. If he ever finds a pair of shoes or boots a size or so too big while thrifting, he grabs them anyway and then tells me hes got something I need to try on. Talk about generosity. It's thoughtful people like him that I aspire to be like and hope to be lucky enough to surround myself with. Thanks again, Trav. You're the man.

A NOTE ABOUT THE PHOTOGRAPHER: When she's not petting stray cats, tweeting in all caps, or rocking a quasi-middle part, Mallory Wiegers is busy working on her undergraduate degree in graphic design at the University of Kansas. She's a longtime friend and compadre. She's also a huge asset to the blog. That header up there - her doing. We're lucky enough to have her input and expertise at our disposal when it comes to all things design. She's currently working on some more projects for the Midwestyle, and considering her 21st was just a few short days ago, I'm sure she'll be reimbursed with pink champagne. Or kittens. Be sure to check her online portfolio and give her a follow on the Twitter machine.

On Cameron: chambray service blazer by Apolis; green plaid button down by Gitman Vintage; grey shawl collar cardigan by J. Crew, slim-straight selvedge denim by Wings + Horns; watch by Timex for J. Crew; vintage tracker boots; vintage belt.

Photography by Mallory Wiegers.

midweSTYLE: Campus

7:57 A.M.

It's midterm season. You hit the quad, half walking, half running, panicking because your bike got a pinch flat back on University Avenue and you had to lock it up and ditch it by Mumford Hall, but your class is over off 6th St.

You had five minutes then. Now you're down to three.

You didn't sleep last night; you didn't have that luxury. Eating, that wasn't exactly on the agenda either. You're breathing though, running over a general timeline of early medieval history again in your head. Professor said exact dates weren't necessary, so you subconsciously purged those. Diocletian. Constantine. The Council of Nicaea. You know this is all living in your short-term memory, trying to bleed back out.

You need to get this down on paper. Now.

You bust through the auditorium doors. Heads turn, people stare. Whatever. You're past embarrassment. You sit, loudly. That TA, the one who always wears the sweat-stained Cardinals hat and a smug, condescending frown, he hands you the exam. Your eyes close. Open. You check the essay questions first. You always check the essay questions first. Pressure releases, you've got those on lock. Multiple choice takes care of itself. You write, and write, and write, shaking slightly from the triple espresso you put down a few hours ago. But it's not long before it's all over. You turn in the exam, with an unexpected confidence in your performance. You leave content. You're walking back across the quad, tired, but more than elated that that midterm is over. Maybe just more excited that you have an opportunity to relax.

And it's then that you stop and look around. You take it in. The leaves. The colors. You'd been ignoring them for the past few days—too busy. But your studying is over now. You hear the soft rustle of leaves being trampled underfoot. You inhale the crisp air. It feels good. And your once overwhelmed and over distracted mind can ignore it no longer.

Fall is here.

Fall, for me, is primarily about two things: layers and fabrics. Flannels, wools, thick-knits. Jackets over sweaters over shirts, with scarves on top. Hats too, sometimes. Put on boots, any boots. And don't forget tweed. Fall is your time to experiment. It's your chance to find who you are, sartorially. Throw on some sportcoats. Or don't, it's your call. But really, above all, have fun. Clothes can be fun. They should be fun.

Wear a watch. You should know what time it is without fishing your iPhone out of your pocket. Plus, watch straps are the new way to display your personality (sarcasm). But in all seriousness, start collecting. Or just buy this.

Fall is also a great time to break in a fresh pair of raw denim. Or, if your selvedge collection is already three or so deep, get on that duck canvas jam. You'll be glad you did.

On Cameron: thrifted herringbone blazer by Hill and Archer, thrifted heather grey sweater by Ireland Group; Kurabo denim in the 77 fit by Baldwin Denim; thrifted blue oxford by Gant, beeswax desert boots by Clarks; military watch by Timex.

Photography by Mallory Wiegers.

midweSTYLE: On the MKT Trail

We live in a day and age where our lives our dominated by choices. We wake up, decide where to get our coffee, what to eat for lunch, what to watch on TV, where to get our haircut, etc. When it comes to denim, we're blessed with luxury of a few dozen purchase-worthy brands. Take your pick: Baldwin, Rogue Territory, Tellason, Left Field, A.P.C., Kicking Mule Workshop, Imogene + Willie, Apolis and so on and so forth. It's a little crazy to think that when we turn back the clock a few decades, this vast sea of quality constructed jeans is reduced to just one stand-out brand. I think you know where I'm going with this. Levi Strauss and Co. has been the king of denim since they started churning out their signature 501's at the turn of the 20th century. And there's no garment more iconic in the gritty subcultures of America than the Trucker jacket. Just because we live our lives in the indigo of a new brand doesn't mean we have to forget who invented the wheel.

These black 501s were my Dad's. They're some of my favorite jeans in terms of fit. They're a straight leg that's slim through the thigh and they have a higher rise that sits at my hips. That is, of course, where pants are supposed to sit. Not that a low rise is bad. It's just a little less natural, in terms of your body's dimensions. Your legs begin at your hips. Conversely, that's where your torso ends. Dropping the rise means that we're visually elongating our torso, thus shortening the appearance of our legs. For some, that's the desired effect. Other times, it can look goofy. It's a subtle thing, but hey, life is in the details.

Something about a black tie makes a man feel alive. Not to mention, a man's best accessory is always his facial hair. Or if you don't have any, I guess your best accessory is your awesome personality, or something like that.

Levi's branding is spot on. And it looks even better after a few decades of wear and tear. The jacket was an eBay acquisition. Note: half of my closet is comprised of eBay acquisitions. Also, the presence of white tube socks denotes #swag.

On Cameron: vintage Trucker jacket by Levi's; heather hoody by American Apparel; vintage white OCBD by Gant; black tie by J.Crew; black leather belt (stolen from dad); old black 501s (stolen from dad) by Levi's; military watch by Timex for J.Crew; black PTBs by Florsheim Imperial.

Photography by Mallory Wiegers.