Fall Essentials: Jackets

When it comes to building a wardrobe, fall should be your favorite time of the sartorial year. You get to pile on layers upon layers: cardigans and scarves; knits, wovens and henleys on button downs on sweaters....I could go on.

Let's talk jackets—the most important piece. Choices are endless, but in a pinch I'll go ahead and say you only need one: a nice blazer in a charcoal color.

1) rag & bone button down, rag & bone corduroy pants, chocolate suede boots by Red Wing

2) rag & bone button down, J.Brand slim cargo pants, laceless "Lexingtons" by Florsheim.

3) rag & bone button down, 14.5 oz selvedge "Henley" denim by Baldwin, desert boots by Clarks.

This is one of the most expensive pieces I first bit the bullet on after I graduated college. But that's okay: There comes a time in a new man's life when you gotta. This guy has been my lifesaver, my wool blend charcoal blazer by Billtornade.

Above: Shrunken wool-blend blazer by Billtornade, baby blue oxford by American Apparel, thrifted striped tie, natural leather belt by Urban Outfitters, 14.5 selvedge "Henley" denim by Baldwin Denim.

A navy blazer is another solid option. A nice weight with a little sheen never hurt either.

Above: Blue cotton blazer by Shades of Grey by Micah Cohen, oxford button-down by American Apparel, wool tie by BDG, corduroy pants by rag & bone.

Or a camel blazer that looks sick with a nice pair of olive chinos, dark-wash denim and charcoal slacks.

Above: Shrunken wool-blend blazer by Billtornade, thrifted camel feather suede blazer by Lanvin, cotton navy military jacket by J.Crew.

Or, throw a curveball:

A well-loved leather bomber, a nice wool coat or a cotton hunting jacket.

Above: Thrifted brown leather bomber jacket, 14.5 selvedge "Henley" denim by Baldwin Denim, mustard suede derbys by 1901.

On Oliver: Selvedge denim, black wool "University" jacket, navy grandpa cardigan, grey chambray button-down and wool plaid tie—all by J.Crew.

On Jeff: Thrifted cotton hunting jacket by J.Crew, fire-red down sweater by Patagonia, 14.5 oz selvedge "Henley denim by Baldwin Denim.

Whatever your pick, wear it. A third piece is always nice to have and surely ties the outfit together.

Gay Talese on embellishing suits off the rack

For most of us, it doesn't make much financial sense to have our clothes hand-made by a tailor. It's one of the regrettable facts of modern life.

Enter Gay Talese, one of the most skilled journalists of our time. (A lot of people think that his story about Frank Sinatra for Esquire was the best profile ever written.) Talese's dad was a tailor, so he's used to having custom-made clothes since...forever. Now, he gets his clothes made in Paris by the son of the guy that taught his father. (Gahhh—if only. Who does Talese think he is?)

Of course, Talese is hardly Midwestern, but Katie Roiphe's interview with him in the Paris Review touches briefly on his style philosophy. The article is about lot of things—most of which are far more important than style—but here's something to get you thinking:

"He is so beautifully dressed that strangers will talk to him in the street, that waiters and hostesses in restaurants will want to do things for him, like find a special place to put his hat. Talese’s father was a tailor, his mother ran a successful dress shop, and he says his first idea of how to be special was through clothing."

Then there's his post on Gilt MANual about how to throw some elbow patches and cuff-work on an old jacket to spice things up.

He says:

"I think every well-dressed man should have something to wear when he does not particularly feel like being well-dressed, but still refuses to blend in with the ranks of men who clearly care little about what they look like.

That said, this is really a knockaround jacket. It’s afternoon material; I don’t wear it at night. (I sometimes dress two or three times in a day.) If I’m going to the dentist, I might wear this, because I’ll keep the jacket on while I’m down in the chair. Now, if I’m going to have lunch with someone, I wouldn’t wear this. I’d wear a suit."

I mean, c'mon!! Not only is guy decking out in bespoke clothes, he has a sport coat that he doesn't think is nice enough to wear to lunch. AND he's updating them every 30, 40 years to make sure nobody else is wearing what he is. What a guy.

Our advice to you? Get yourself to the thrift store, pick up a wool jacket that fits you like a glove, then take it to the tailor and embellish the hell out of that thing.

To read more of Talese's philosophy on tailoring, check out Gilt MANual by clicking on the photo:

patagonia winter 2011 sale 30% off

If you waited all winter for the Patagonia Web Specials to go live like me, your time has finally arrived. It's not much off, maybe some tax, but hey, grab it now while you still can. I've snagged some baggies after their summer sale and now I'm waiting for my paycheck to go in to grab a down sweater. Here are my top picks that you need for the winter, if you don't already have them:

Fleece, Shell and a Down Jacket:
Fleece will keep you warm, but won't necessarily block the wind.
Shell will block the wind, but won't keep you as warm.
Down jacket will keep you warm and block the wind.

men's marsupial synchilla for $62.30, was $89

men's insulator for $104, was $150

men's down sweater $140, was $200.

 Or just take care of it all & grab this:

men's retro-x jacket for $140, was $200

The Retro-X doesn't look windproof, but, it is and breathable and warm and everything Chewbacca would want. The fleece and shell will last you into spring and even summer for a chilly night. 

Overall, the bargains are great but are going to continue to drop as they flush through more inventory. So if there is something you really want, grab it now but wait a little bit if you want to risk it for 40% off.